J is for Journey - a cruise to Alaska in 1954 - - Blogging from A to Z April 2020 Challenge!

Today - J is for Journey - Na and Aunt Maggie cruise to Alaska, 1954

Blogging about British Columbia Genealogy Resources

My Na, Amy Estella Scott, née Irwin, in our Vancouver backyard with her two cute grandchildren in about 1953-4. Photographer: JM Rogers; personal Collection. She looks a bit worried but I think you can see we seem all to be frowning a bit due to the sunny weather. 

Years ago now (!), I transcribed my grandmother (Na) Amy Estella Scott's account of her trip to Alaska with her sister, my Aunty Grandma, Maggie Drummond, in 1954. I always meant to add more to this (pictures, notes) and do it up as a little booklet. She talked about 'going to Alaska' quite a bit when I was young and her 'most original costume' trophy was always out on display. She mentioned the places they'd been, especially Ben-My-Chree on the border of BC and the Yukon, but mostly she talked about the people they met on the ship and the great fun they had together. She was a very social person. I think her sister was a little more reserved usually, but together I remember them laughing a lot. 

Na kept a journal or a lot of notes, and when she came home my Mum (or unlikely - Dad) typed it up for her. I know in later years I got a copy of Mum's copy. I'm posting my transcription here while I work on the booklet. (Mostly as is - I've broken up a few very long parts.)  I do have the passenger list and will post that later. Na mentions a number of people's names so I hope some might find a relative here.

 ALASKA CRUISE, 1954
Written by Amy Estella Scott (née Irwin)

Enjoyed June 25th – July 5, 1954 with a good sport and old pal, my sister Margaret.  

Having made reservations on the C. N. R. S.S Prince George months ahead, there seemed no hurry to prepare or plan until the last week of June, when we realized it was time to pack our bags – not a case of “something borrowed and something blue", but something warm and something lighter in case we should get a little of the long looked for summer weather.

June 25 P.M.   The Rogers family took me down to my boat at the C. N. R. dock. The Stewarts also came to see me off. My sister was already on board with her family to see us settled.   A large crowd lined the dock railing to watch the boat depart. A drunken sailor staggered up the gang plank at the last minute and someone remarked “He is likely the chief engineer”. Cheerful thought, wasn’t it? A 9 o’clock the gang plank was pulled up but there seemed to be some delay. Presently it was lowered again and some belated passengers who had missed their connection at Seattle arrived and were cheered as they finally scrambled on board.

We watched the city lights departing behind us until we passed under the Lion’s Gate Bridge, then went to our stateroom, which was cozy and attractive, comfortable beds, toilet and shower. Roomy wardrobe, built in dresser, with lots of drawers and mirrors, wall to wall carpet and easy chairs.

Tea was announced at 10 o’clock, so we went along – worse luck! as I didn’t sleep for hours. However, up in time for a shower and breakfast at 7:30 next a.m. 

Sat, June 26.    After breakfast we went in line for our table setting. We were assigned 1st sitting. Breakfast 7:30, Lunch 12 o’clock, Dinner 6 o’clock, also informed that tea and coffee were served at 10 a.m., 4 - 5 and 10 p.m. Our table No. 23 was set for 8. Two American couples, Mr. and Mrs. Andreson, Hollywood, Calif. and Mr. and Mrs. Wright, Indianapolis, Ind., also Mr. and Mrs. Cobb, Edmonton, Alta., my sister and myself. All were very friendly and congenial and we had a lot of fun.

We didn’t do much the first day except explore the boat and enjoy the scenery also the dancing in the evening. Tea at 10 and soon to bed. Really to sleep that night.

We were given programmes of the activities planned for each day during the trip. There were checkers, quits [quoits], deck golf, table tennis, shuffleboard, etc. Tournaments were arranged and trophies awarded. There were pictures every afternoon, mostly of C. N. R. resorts.

All were given passenger lists with names and addresses. A scavenger hunt was arranged to get the crowd mixing. A fancy costume dance was held on Sat. night, spontaneous creations to be designed and made from any material that could be procured. All who could and would contribute to a Variety Sun. night concert were asked to contact the Cruise Director early in the week.

Sun. June 27^th 7:30 a.m.    We arrived at Prince Rupert, our first stop, and went ashore to explore part of the town. It was quite a climb but worth it to see and admire many fine homes and gardens. Five of us attended United Church service before returning to the boat which sailed again at noon. The weather was dull but calm, the water like glass.

Mon. June 28^th.     I looked out the port hole in the early a. m. and saw a big black whale wallowing quite near us. Around noon icebergs were sighted to our left. At 3 p.m. we arrived at Juneau, capital of Alaska (pop. 8,500). A number took a sight seeing trip but we “did” the town. Many nice stores – plenty of saloons, swarms of children. They suck their thumbs too! (This for Diane.)

Tues. June 29th.  My watch deceived me – so discovered after I was fully dressed, that it was 4 o’clock instead of 6. However, went to the front lounge where several were already enjoying the wonderful view. The mountain tops were pink from a glare of sunshine coming from somewhere behind the scenes. A giant glacier rose from the water’s edge at our left and seemed quite near, but after watching for an hour it seemed no closer. The mountains seemed to rise directly out of the water, with no beach, yet some small boats were in evidence. Where did they come from and where were they going? seemed to be the question. Went inside when the 7 o’clock gong suggested breakfast, returned later to watch the procedure of the great boat edging ahead as though always steering to a dead end which somehow opened up and continued on through narrow passages between islands to further opening waters. It reminded me of life’s journey. We see so little ahead, but something always opens up and we continue on with faith in our Pilot as we had in our captain on the bridge.

A 9 o’clock a.m, we arrived at Skagway, where we took train for the White Pass and Taku Arm trip. A narrow gage railway with five parlour cars (ancient vintage) – about 30 passengers to a car. We started out winding and climbing. The car swaying more and more as we climbed higher and higher passing through tunnels, under water sheds, over bridges that looked weak at the knees. The mountains got higher and higher, mostly bare rock with snow in the crevices or falls roaring down. At last we reached the White Pass highest peak on the trail of 98. Later we wound along a narrow ledge with steep mountains straight up on one side and beautiful reflections and the coloring of the mountains almost more vividly than the actual scenery mirrored there. Across the lake looked like a sandy shore which should have been lined with cottages – but not a sign of life anywhere. 

We arrived at Carcross (70 miles) around noon. There we boarded the Tutshi (Too-shy) not in the class of the Prince George but quite o.k. We got our stateroom, then had lunch and started southward on the West Arm of Lake Tagish – the water like glass – wooded mountains on either side. 

A view of Ben-My-Chree (Girl of my heart), West Taku Arm; postcard, family collection.

We reached the end of the lake (100 miles) about 7 p.m. and visited Ben-My-Chree (Girl of my heart) the historic former home of Mr. and Mrs. Partridge who had pioneered there in the gold rush days and had had open house for all who came their way. They were a wealthy and cultured couple who through hard work and perseverance had built a comfortable home with an exquisite flower garden as well as an abundance of vegetables and a huge rhubarb patch from which she made wine to serve her many visitors. It was really a surprise and thrill, like an oasis in the desert. 

The place is now managed by the Transportation Co. and their tradition of entertaining is kept up. A gardener and two hostesses are in charge. Among the original furnishings is the little organ brought from England, also a sewing machine, books, china, etc., also a huge billiard table and an enormous black cook stove. The visitors’ book contains the name of many celebrities and one wall is covered with cards left by visitors. The garden was enchanting, with sandy paths leading through terraced beds of pansies, poppies, delphiniums, forget-me-nots, etc. Indoors a big table was set with dainty china and tea, coffee and cookies were served to the callers, as well as huge pitchers of rhubarb wine with glasses set out on the big billiard table. 

Later on we again strolled through the garden. A big black bear appeared on a nearby mountain side and scampered around as if showing off for our benefit. (It really did. Don’t get the idea that the rhubarb wine had anything to do with it.) At 9 o’clock we returned to our boat and proceeded north again, at midnight June 30th it was still daylight, but we didn’t see the midnight sun. The boat was anchored from midnight until 5 a.m. then proceeded in order to arrive back in Carcross. After breakfast had been served, when all went ashore, an Indian in native deer skins gave a lecture in the station. He had replicas of their primitive traps, used before the law prohibited their devices. He had a picture of the man who found the first gold there and told of the 1000s who came in during the ’98 rush. 

Our train was waiting to take us back to Skagway. We stopped at Bennett for noon lunch. Huge tables set in the station with everything piled on to help ourselves. Moose meat, potatoes, beans, peas, blueberry pie and coffee. Arrived back at Skagway about 3 o’clock, p.m. and explored the once famous town, now mostly deserted with crumbling old wooden buildings. A modern touch too with air landing fields and big oil tanks. We were glad to get back to the luxury of the Pr. George where we cleaned up and have now settled to collect a few notes and settle our stomachs after a wonderful dinner. I’m afraid it will be a case of “Big Amy” before I get home.

A number of passengers are going up to town to a show before we pull out on our return southward. Later the show was reported to have been a lot of fun – a take-off on the early days with play money for gambling, etc. The whole crowd came down to say “Farewell” to the boat at midnight.

Thurs. July 1st.    Through beautiful Lynn Canal out of Skagway. We saw many icebergs and whales. A lovely slow sail through narrow channels marked by bergs on either side. We called at Wrangel about 11 a.m. and Ketchikan at 8 the following a.m.  where we spent several hours. Took a bus trip to see the town, then visited a mink farm where they had 3000 mink, all sizes and colors. Later to a fish packing plant. (Don’t know which smelled the worst) We stopped to examine several totem poles, the driver explaining their respective stories. Ketchikan is on an island with only 50 miles of road, but seemed as though everyone had a car. It is densely wooded yet the well painted modern homes are mostly heated by oil and electricity used for cooking.

Fri., July 2nd.    Wonderful scenery on both sides of narrow passages between islands. High mountains with rapid waterfalls. Arrived back at Prince Rupert about 7 o’clock, went up to town and did some shopping, left again at midnight.

Sat., July 3rd.    In the a.m. the Captain invited everyone to visit the bridge and explained many of the delicate and intricate instruments. Also thrilled many of the ‘gals’  by posting for pictures with them. The Captain’s dinner was the highlight of Sat. A grand dinner, as each and every meal was super, there was nothing to add in the way of food, but we had favors, noise makers, balloons, hats, etc. As two thirds of our some 170 passengers were Americans, a large U.S. flag was draped along with our Union Jack as we celebrated both July 1st and July 4th enroute. 

Sun. July 4th.    We reached Ocean Falls at 7:30 and after breakfast went ashore to explore the town. A wide board walk wound up through the Main st. with lovely May trees and hanging flower baskets on either side. We looked down on the immense power dam. Then returned to attend United Church. Anglican and Catholic services were held on board ship during the stay there.

This was the clearest and sunniest morning on the whole trip, but sunshine still seemed to be rationed as it got quite dull around 4 o’clock also the water quite choppy. 

The Sunday night Variety Show was really just that. A high school principal, Mr. Pepper, from Sacramento, Cal., acted as M. C.  An Australian boy, taking a trip around the world, sang. Also Mr. Cobb of Edmonton. Two little girls from Long Beach, Cal, holidaying with their grandparents, played a piano duet. Sheila Pepper danced the Charleston. A Los Angeles actress recited and “Scotty” a deck hand sang. Russ Westover, creator of “Tillie the Toiler” (who with his charming wife “Tillie” were passengers) drew cartoons of many in the audience.

The captain was to have presented the awards for the various contests which had been held during the cruise, but the weather was so unsettled he sent his regrets and remained on the bridge. I got quite a surprise and thrill when I was awarded 1st prize for the most original costume. My sister and I hadn’t entered into many of the week’s activities so decided to fix up for Sat. night – just for fun. So when ashore at Prince Rupert Friday night we got some red and some tan crepe paper. I suggested wrapping her in a sheet and winding stripes of red paper diagonally around her to represent a barber pole as she is so long and narrow, but she didn’t fancy the idea so decided to go “Gay 90’s”. She had a very pretty full nylon slip to which she added a deep paper frill of the red paper. She had brought along a wide brimmed hat which she hoped to wear for shade while sitting on deck but the weather didn’t cooperate. Between us we had a mixture of artificial flowers which she used lavishly on top and under the up-tipped brim of her big hat, also had streamers to a flower sash. She really looked quite a gal.

In contrast I fixed up as a little “Injun”. I made myself a pair of tan pants using the lining side-out of our port hole curtains. I fringed tan crepe paper to make my coat and trim of my paper bag moccasins. Made my bow and arrow from a wooden coat hanger, also fringed brown paper into feathers and had “Chief Eater” in lip stick on the band. 

Second prize went to a lady in a rain coat with a lighted coal oil lantern. Her placard read “Passenger on  S. S. Prince George looking for the midnight sun, or in fact any sun.” 

On our last morning, Monday, July 5th, our table members got together and surprised our waiter by being too early for breakfast, as he had urged us to be on time. Later all assembled in the lounge or on deck to watch the boat sail into home port, all beginning to regret that the journey was at an end as each day had been so full of entertainment and activity – Each day finding some one contributing their special talent, such as Russ Westover with his cartoons and a sleight of hand artist amazing the children with his stunts.

We discovered the last morning at breakfast that a lady at our table told fortunes so we were having our palms read as we sailed under the Lions Gate Bridge. – So the interest and thrill kept up until the loud speaker urged all to get ready to go ashore.

After disembarking, the crowd assembled to pick up baggage and say “Farewell” to the many kindly and friendly folks who had cooperated so congenially throughout the cruise – So now home again to settle to ordinary living with pleasant memories of a grand holiday, which even now seems like a pleasant dream, except for the 5 lbs. gained which seemed to discredit the saying that you can’t eat your cake and have it too – With literary apologies.

                               Amy E. Scott